Oman travel report

*Dieser Artikel enthält unbezahlte Werbung und Affiliate Links

Day 1 and 2: Munich, Muscat

After some month of waiting, today was the day of our departure. A flight of about six hours took us to Muscat, Oman - the country of frankincense. This time we choose Oman Air and we were very satisfied. Excellent service, amazing food and ample space to the seat in front of you made our night flight with the A330-200 quite cozy.
Mit der aufgehenden Sonne landeten wir am Seeb Airport in Muscat, wo man das Visum direkt nach der Landung kauft (20 OMR, 30 Tage gültig) und auch sonst alles glatt ging und wir am Exit vom Shuttle-Service unseres Hotels* .

Nach Check-In und kurzem Refreshment in unserem schönen Hotelzimmer im Stadtteil Ghala Heights, ließen wir uns für kleines Geld per Taxi zum Souq nach Muttrah fahren. Die Taxis im Oman haben kein Taxometer, sodass der Preis im Vorhinein auszuhandeln ist. Dieser Bazar is einer der ältesten des Landes, hat uns aber nicht so begeistert. Neben Goldschmuck und Weihrauch gab es vor allem gefälschte Fussballtrikots, Haushaltsgeräte und anderen Kram. Keine Gewürze oder andere Sachen, die wir von anderen arabischen Souqs kennen. Zwischen Souq und Meer findet man die Haltestelle des Big Bus, sowie viele kleine Straßenrestaurants mit unglaublich leckerem Kebab und exotischen Saftkreationen. Wir haben im Gulf Fast Food & Juice Centre gegessen und waren sehr zufrieden und sind für wenige € richtig satt geworden. Da wir in unserem Oman Reisebericht auch die schlechten Erlebnissen mit euch teilen wollen, erzählen wir euch jetzt von unserer Erfahrung mit dem Sightseeing Bus.
After that we decided to join a city tour with Big Bus (Hop on Hop off), because our experiences with this kind of exploring cities were always positive in other cities. The bus is very expensive in Muscat with about 60€ and the frequency is with 2 hours very low. At the main station of Big Bus at Muttrah Souq, there are a lot of taxi drivers which offer city tours at significantly lower costs. Unfortunately we booked Big Bus online previously and couldn´t join the taxi drivers. So we got in the bus and after two stations we left it again at Qurum Beach. Once arrived, we took a walk beachside and relaxed in a cafe with coffee and juice. After two hours we wanted to board the bus again and continue our tour. But we´ve been waiting vain and after three more hours we decided to take a taxi back to the hotel. So we´ve paid 60 € per person for the bus, had to pay for the taxi and didn´t see a thing from the city. Thank You for this lost day of vacation, Big Bus.

Oman Reisebericht

Day 3: Muscat, Khasab, Musandam Peninsula

This day we had to get up very early.
Alarmclock at 4:30 am. Taxi to the Airport at 05:00 am. Departure to Khasab at 07:35 am.
Again we choose Oman Air and had one of the best flights ever. The flight towards Khasab over the fjords of the Musandam peninsula is gorgeous (Take the left row of the plane). Arrived in Khasab, Musandam Sea Adventure (MSA) welcomed us very heartily and took us to their office.

After a short chat with the lovely staff, we started our two-day-tour through the fjords of Musandam. In the port of Musandam, we entered the lovely Dhow and after half an hour we cast out our lines and tried to catch a fish. Surprisingly it didn´t take long until we the first fishes tasted our calamari bait und we could land some beautiful hamour fishes.

After this great success we absolutely deserved our delicious omani-style lunch. We spent the afternoon swimming, snorkeling and relaxing. The only negative point we can say about the two days in Musandam is the amount of plastic washed on the beaches. This really brings tears to our eyes. But this is definitely not the fault of MSA. Our guides were very aware of the correct handling of trash on and off the boat. Always be sure to have take your trash with you and don´t throw anything over board a boat or pollute the environment anyways.

musandam tour

In the late afternoon they took us to our campsite on a lonely white beach in the Strait of Hormuz, where Mohin - another employee of MSA - welcomed us. We moved into our new home for the night - a small 2-person-tent. Really adventurous and amazing to experience. Mohin read every wish from our eyes and pleased us with Omani-tea, Softdrinks and snacks. The Omani-tea consists of black tea, oregano, sugar, cumin and rose water. The beach is only accessible by boat except you are a goat, because these little guys were everywhere around. Even a fox strayed arounf our camp in the dawn.

After sunset Mohin grilled our self caught fishes for us - a culinary feast with delicious sides omani-style. Later in the evening our guide Emad and the owner of MSA Mr. Abdulfattah visited us in the camp for a nice chat at the campfire. They told us stories about Oman in general, the art of building a dhow and the establishment of MSA. We never experienced hospitality like that before. Really a lovely and remarkable experience, which we are not used to.

We spent the night quite calm only with the silence only disturbed by the sound of fighting desert foxes.

Eine ähnliche Tour findet ihr hier*.

Oman Reisebericht
musandam tour
Oman Reisebericht

Day 4: Khasab, Musandam Peninsula

Waking up with sunset on a lonely beach is what makes a journey spezial. After a substantial breakfast we were picked up and started our cruise through the expressive fjord Khor Sham.
Oman Reisebericht
Oman Reisebericht
Oman Reisebericht

We saw a few remote villages only accessible by boat along the kilometers long fjord. We were accompanied by lovely dolphins almost all the time. These amazing mammals surfed the bow waves of our boat. Unbelievable how much fun they had. We couldn´t check out which dolphin species it was. Maybe one of you can help? Have a look on the pictures or videos.
Zweimal haben wir zum Schnorcheln an ganz netten Spots angehalten. Auch das Essen und der Tee waren wieder exzellent. Eine ähnliche Tour ab Khasab findet ihr hier*.
We arrived back in port at about 16:30 and the guys from MSA took us to the amazing Atana Hotel Musandam* , where we spent our last night in the omani exclave in the far north. For dinner we ordered an amazing arabian mezzeh plate to our room and slept heavenly.

Musandam Resort
Oman Sehenswürdigkeiten

Day 5: Khasab, Muscat, Misfat al Abryeen, Misfah Old House

Thank you very much, MSA, you guys did everything to make our trip to Musandam an unforgettable time to us. The flight back to Muscat was really great again. Don´t miss mighty Musandam in the far north of Oman. MSA organizes transfers from Dubai and other Emirates to Musandam. They really make it easy to enjoy the whole thing.

Gegen 12:00 Uhr konnten wir dann unseren Mietwagen* am Flughafen Muscat entgegennehmen. Wir hatten Glück und bekamen einen nagelneuen Nissan Sunny, mit dem wir sofort Richtung Misfat Al Abryeen aufbrachen (2,5 Stunden). Vorab kann man schon mal sagen, dass Autofahren im Oman total entspannt ist. Die Einheimischen nehmen Rücksicht und selbst im Feierabendverkehr der Hauptstadt kommt kein Stress auf. Aber Achtung – der Oman strotzt nur so vor Blitzern, vor allem auf den Autobahnen. Maximalgeschwindigkeit auf dem unglaublich gut ausgebauten Straßennetz ist 120 km/h.
Once arrived in Misfat, we took the upper parking lot in front of the main gate. The lower one in the centre is for the locals. We packed a daypack, because no one wants to carry big luggage on a hot day up and down the stairs of this lovely hillside oasis village.
Our bed for this night was in Misfah Old House* . The owner welcomed us very heartly und we could immediately check into our simple but authentic room equiped with nothing more than matresses on the floor.

Oman Sehenswürdigkeiten
Oman Reisetipps
Misfah Old House

In this authentic Guesthouse the delicious dinner is served at 19:00 in buffetform on the amazing rooftop. All day long the staff serves sensational drinks and juices , but the true highlight is the stunning view from the roof of Misfah Old House.

Make sure to do the walk through the oasis valley of Misfat, where all imaginable kinds of fruit, that you know from supermarkets in best case, hang from the trees: bananas, dates, figs, pomegranates and limes. Thats paradise for me. This possible because of a sophisticated system of irrigation the has it origin in a source miles away.
Visiting Misfah means to obey some rules - just like everywhere in Oman: No pictures of locals without permit, covering your shoulders and wearing long trousers and of course no alcohol. Contrary to our expectations we spent a very calm night in this very old house.

Distance: 197 km

Day 6: Misfah Old House, Misfat Al Abryeen, Jabal Akhdar

Nach einem ausgiebigen Frühstück und einem netten Plausch mit anderen Gästen, sind wir ausgeschlafen wie eh und je über Nizwa nach Birkat Al Mauz aufgebrochen. Unser Tagesziel war der Al Jabal al Akhdar – der grüne Berg. Dort oben steht das Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort – das höchstgelegene Luxushotel im Arabischen Raum. Das Hotel ist nicht ganz preiswert, aber jeden Euro wert. Wenn ihr eine Reise durch den Oman plant, legt auf jeden Fall eine oder zwei Nächte hier ein. Auch wenn es viel Geld ist, ihr werdet es nicht bereuen. Wir haben schon vielen Leuten gesagt, sie sollen hier hinfahren und niemand hat es bereut – auch wenn man erst mal schlucken muss aufgrund der Kosten. In den Sommermonaten bekommt man das Hotel schon für gute 200€ pro Person im Doppelzimmer. Hier oben leidet man aufgrund der Höhe auch nicht so unter der Sommerhitze. Hier findet ihr den Link zum Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort*. Nach dem Ende des Dorfes, Richtung Jabal Akhdar kommt ein Parkplatz und danach ein Polizei-Checkpoint. Die Polizei lässt niemanden passieren, der keinen Jeep mit 4WD hat, obwohl die Straße eigentlich gut asphaltiert ist, wenn auch sehr steil. Da uns der vom Hotel angebotene Transfer mit 80 OMR viel zu teuer erschien, haben wir es mal drauf ankommen lassen und sind bis zum Polizeicheckpoint gefahren, wo wir auch gleich von einem Einheimischen seine Dienste als Fahrer angeboten bekamen und so einigten wir uns auf die Hälfte des vom Hotel veranschlagten Preises: 40 OMR für die 30 km Bergstraße und am nächsten wieder zurück. Die für den einfachen Weg einzuplanende Zeit vom Checkpoint bis zum Anantara auf 2.000 m Höhe beträgt eine gute halbe Stunde mit grandioser Aussicht auf das Hadschar-Gebirge.

Oman Reisetipps

Das Hotel ist wirklich eine Wucht. Wir haben schon viele Hotels gesehen, aber das Anantara mit seinem Infinity-Pool am Rande des Grand Canyon des Omans ist unglaublich. Der Empfang mit Macarons und Datteln sowie das SPA suchen wahrhaft seines Gleichen. Auch Lady Diana hat hier oben einst ihren Urlaub verbracht.

Distance: 105 km

Oman Reisebericht

Day 7: Jabal Akhdar, Wahiba Desert

^Das opulente Frühstücksbuffet im Anantara ist ohne Zweifel das Beste, das wir jemals gesehen haben. Eine riesige Auswahl von selbst gebackenen Köstlichkeiten, grandioser Kaffee und unglaubliche viele verschiedene Früchte.
At 09:00 our driver Salem picked us up on time (what we were not expecting caused by communication problems) and drove us down the hill to our car.

Immediately we hit the road in direction of Wahiba desert, where we arrived in Alreem Desert Camps*in early afternoon. The staff welcomed us very kindly and we check-in our orient style room before our driver Masood picked us up for a dune crossing tour in the endless sand desert. Looking in Masood´s eyes, we could see the fun he had bashing up and down the dunes.

Oman Reisebericht
Oman Reisetipps
Oman Sehenswürdigkeiten
Oman Sehenswürdigkeiten

In the middle of nowhere we met a group of beduins, which invited us and Masood in the their camp for Pepsi and crisps. Unfortunately we were in a hurry not to miss the sunset in the epic desert camp „The Legend of Dunes“ Enjoying Omani tea we had this romantic moment for us. In this camp it is also possible to spend a night under the crystal clear sky.

Zurück im Alreem Desert Camp, wurde uns leckeres Hühnchen über offenem Feuer gegrillt. Dazu gab es eine Vielzahl an Beilagen, Salate und Brote. Später plauderten wir noch am Lagerfeuer mit anderen Gästen und den Mitarbeitern über den Oman und Reisen im Allgemeinen.

Distance: 270 km

Oman Sehenswürdigkeiten

Day 8: Wahiba Desert, Ras Al Jinz

After always getting up before sunrise the days before, today we let the sun rise alone slept until 08:00 just in time for breakfast.

Masood picked us up and took us to his house and his lovely wife served another breakfast in omani style for us. Rhey spoilt us with coffee, tea, dates, pomegranate, honey melone and sweet baked cookies called Lugemat. Everywhere in Masood and Obia´s house were the gentle smell of frankincense, yasmine and patchouli. Masood showed us his house, what made us feel very honored. Insight in the life of the locals is what makes a journey really spezial. Additionally they had a gift for us: An annual ration of dates. This amount of hospitality made us feel very happy. Thank You, Masood.

Anschließend wurden wir ins Al Reem Chalet* nach Al Starqiyah gefahren, wo wir wieder recht herzlich empfangen wurden. Auch ein sehr schönes Camp mit mehreren orientalisch eingerichteten Zimmern.
The beach was quite covered with plastic trash. There were workers that tried to clean up the beach, but it was a lot of trash. Mankind must change ist consumption patterns, otherwise most beaches in the world will look like this one.
Anschließend heizten wir mit Masood und seinem Jeep über den fast menschenleeren Strand. 

Oman Reisebericht

Nach der Rückkehr zum Alreem Desert Camp, starteten wir gleich wieder zur Küste nach Ras Al Jinz zum Turtle Reserve, wo wir die folgende Nacht gebucht hatten.
In the waters around Oman live five species of sea turtles: Green Turtle, Olive Ridley Turtle, Hawksbill Turtle, Loggerhead Turtle und Leatherback Turtle.
At 21:00 we went to the beach in the light of the full moon. Our guide told us interesting facts about the life and the egg-laying process of turtles. Only green turtles come to the beach in Ras Al Jinz to lay their eggs. 25 - 35 years after hatching the turtles come back to the beach of their birth to lay their eggs. And that was what we satt his night.
A huge was sitting in a hole and press the small white eggs out of ist body and covered them with sand. While covering the eggs with a one meter layer of sand, it digged a camouflage hole to fool predators like foxes.
After the eggs are laid, the turtle crawled back to the sea under greatest exertion. After every Stepp the heavy turtle had to make a break and ist head sank to the and ist eyes closed for a few seconds before it made the next step.
From this time, mama turtle has no more influence on its nest. The only factor that decides upon the sex of the baby turtles. If the sand has more than 28 degrees celsius, the babies will be female. Below 28 degrees they will be male.
Peakseason for turtles laying their eggs is from June to August, when only a few tourists are in Oman, but also now in November the whole beach is covered with turtles´ wholes. What an experience.

Distance: 116 km

Oman Reisebericht
Oman Reisebericht

Day 9: Ras Al Jinz, Wadi Al Shab, Bimmah Sinkhole, Muscat

The next day our the alarm waked us up at 4:30 und we went to the beach again in hope for seeing more turtles. On our way we saw two foxes waiting for the turtles.

Just in the moment we arrived at the beach, we could see a turtle making ist way back to the Ocean. At this time it was still completely dark. Unfortunately this seemed to be the only turtle on the beach. So we decided to wait for the sunset and this was good.

The guide let us watch the sunrise on the beach or go back to the hotel. At sunrise you normally don't have to ask us twice and that was a good decision.
As the sun began to slowely colour the sky lika a rainbow, suddenly the whole beach was full of baby turtles. They appeared directly out of the sand behind us.

We accompanied the babies in the water to protect them from crabs, foxes and birds. Despite our help, only a few of them will survive and grow to an adult turtle, which will in in two or three decades return to Ras Al Jinz to lay their own eggs on this beach.

Oman Reisebericht
Oman Sehenswürdigkeiten
After this dream coming true, we were pleased with one of the most impressive sunrises ever.
Oman Reisebericht
Oman Reisebericht
Together with dolphins in Musandam this was the most amazing experience of our journey.
Oman Reisebericht

Later this morning, we hit the road again in northern direction to Wadi Al Shab. Next to the parking lot there is small river, which you can pass by boat (1 OMR).

From here an easy hike starts and lasts about 45 minutes through the lovely green valley along a small creek.

Be sure to have plenty of water and sun protection with you, as it is very hot inside the Wadi.

Oman Sehenswürdigkeiten

At the end of the hike, it only continues through the water. Here, non-slip shoes and a drybag for your valuables or an anti-theft backpack like our Loctote are an advantage. But barefoot is not a problem either. From here it goes swimming and walking alternately until you get to the end of the wadi. There is a deep pool again, which you have to swim through until there is a small crack in the rock. You can only get through here because it's so narrow. Then a cave opens into which a waterfall flows. Really very spectacular.

Oman Reisebericht
Oman Reisetipps
Oman Reisetipps

On our way back to Muscat we stopped at the Bimmah sinkhole. A hole in the ground about 50 meters deep filled with crystal clear sea water. Presumably it is an underground cave, the ceiling of which has collapsed - just like the cenotes in Mexico. The water is teeming with small fish that nibble off dandruff. Really funny the little guys trying to eat you up. A free beauty treatment for us humans. A real highlight in this Oman travel report.

Oman Reisetipps

Shortly before Muscat the highway leads up a mountain and down on the other side. It's really cool to cruise down here in the sunset with a view of the city. After a long day we finally arrived at the Centara Hotel, treated ourselves to a great dinner on the rooftop of the hotel and ended our road trip.

Distance: 254 km

Day 10 - 15: Tag: Muscat, Salalah

Today the alarm clock rings one last time before 6 a.m., then it's time to sleep in.
Pack things up, clear out the car, have a quick breakfast and off to the airport. We return the car without any problems and board the plane to Salalah. With that, the adventurous part of our trip and with it our Oman travel report is over and we indulge in well-deserved doing nothing.

Oman Reisebericht
Oman Reisetipps
Oman Reisetipps

Nach der Ankunft im Rotana Salalah Resort*, wo wir unseren ersten All-inclusive Aufenthalt verbringen werden, stellt sich uns relativ schnell die Frage, ob das wirklich unsere Art des Urlaubs ist.

The beach is clean, white and the water ist emerald green. Every noon, 20-30 dolphins visit the beach and impress the visitors with their elegant jumps.

The beach is clean, white and the water ist emerald green. Every noon, 20-30 dolphins visit the beach and impress the visitors with their elegant jumps.
All in all another amazing journey was over too fast and everyday life has us back.

Oman Reisebericht

Day 16: Salalah, Muscat, Munich

Return flight from Salalah to Muscat and from Muscat to Munich.

Hopefully our Oman travel report inspired you a little or answered your questions.

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